A recent example involves a Greenpeace investigation into C&A’s “Iconic Puffer” jackets. According to Greenpeace Austria, laboratory tests detected PFAS substances in several jackets, with some reported to exceed current EU limits. C&A responded that their products comply with existing legal requirements based on testing from accredited laboratories and stated that the Greenpeace findings relate to new PFAS testing approaches linked to upcoming regulations rather than current legal obligations.
While the details of this specific case remain subject to interpretation, it illustrates an important point for the textile industry. Changes in PFAS testing methodology can significantly influence compliance outcomes.
Why PFAS Testing Results Are Changing
Per and polyfluoroalkyl substances, commonly referred to as PFAS, are often called “forever chemicals” because of their persistence in the environment. In textiles, PFAS have historically been used in durable water repellent finishes to provide water and oil repellency. As regulators move to restrict PFAS substances, analytical methods are also evolving to detect them more comprehensively.
A key development is the publication of the European standard:
EN 17681-1:2025 Textiles and textile products Determination of PFAS
This standard introduces alkaline hydrolysis, a preparation step that can release PFAS compounds previously bound in fluorinated finishes. As a result, substances that were not detectable with earlier methods may now be measured during analysis.
This means that:
- Products previously tested with older methods may show higher measurable PFAS levels when analysed using updated standards
- The product formulation may not have changed, but the analytical approach has become more sensitive
- This can influence regulatory assessments and market surveillance outcomes
Increasing Regulatory Pressure on PFAS
PFAS regulation is tightening rapidly worldwide. Several developments are shaping the regulatory landscape for the textile industry. At EU level, a broad PFAS restriction proposal is currently under evaluation and could significantly limit the use of PFAS across many industries, including textiles. At the same time, some countries are already introducing national restrictions on PFAS in consumer products. For example, France has already introduced restrictions on PFAS in several consumer products, including clothing textiles, which entered into force on 1 January 2026. Denmark will introduce restrictions on PFAS in certain textile products from 1 July, increasing the pressure on brands and manufacturers to prepare for stricter requirements. Market surveillance by authorities and non governmental organisations is also increasing. Products already available on the market may be tested using the most up to date analytical methods. This creates a new challenge for companies. Products that previously passed compliance checks may be re evaluated using updated testing protocols.
OEKO-TEX® Already Applies Updated PFAS Testing Methods
OEKO-TEX® introduced updated PFAS testing requirements, which have been applied by member institutes such as TESTEX since 1 October 2024 using methods aligned with EN 17681-1:2025. earlier. This proactive approach ensures that products tested or certified under OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 are evaluated using state of the art analytical methods that reflect evolving regulatory expectations. Regular certification updates therefore help ensure that products continue to meet current testing requirements and substance limits.
Why Voluntary PFAS Pre Testing Can Protect Brands
With testing methods evolving and regulations tightening, many brands are reassessing their PFAS compliance strategies.
Voluntary PFAS testing using the latest methods can help companies:
- identify potential PFAS risks before market surveillance or NGO investigations occur
- verify compliance with new and upcoming regulations
- protect brand reputation and consumer trust
- ensure confidence when placing products on the EU market
In many cases, early testing allows companies to adjust materials or chemical formulations before regulatory deadlines take effect.
Preparing for the Next Phase of PFAS Regulation
The textile industry is entering a period of significant regulatory change regarding PFAS. As restrictions expand and testing methods evolve, proactive compliance management is becoming increasingly important. Recent market cases demonstrate that compliance risks can arise not only from product formulation but also from changes in analytical methods used to detect substances. For brands and manufacturers, two measures are particularly important.
Maintain up to date certification
Certification schemes such as OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 require regular renewal and testing according to the latest criteria. Maintaining valid certification helps ensure that products are assessed using current testing requirements and regulatory thresholds.
Conduct proactive PFAS pre testing
Voluntary testing using the latest PFAS methods allows brands to identify potential risks early before regulatory inspections, NGO investigations or market surveillance actions occur.
This proactive approach helps companies:
- anticipate upcoming PFAS restrictions
- prepare for national regulations such as the Danish PFAS restrictions entering into force on 1 July
- protect brand reputation
- ensure confident market placement in Europe
With regulatory pressure increasing and testing methods evolving, early testing and transparent chemical management are becoming essential elements of textile compliance strategies.
TESTEX supports brands, retailers and manufacturers with PFAS testing using the latest analytical methods within the OEKO-TEX® scope. In addition, TESTEX has developed a new and highly innovative Non-Targeted PFAS Analysis method. This approach can screen more than 10,000 known and unknown PFAS compounds, helping brands and manufacturers identify potential risks beyond current regulations and stay prepared for the next phase of PFAS regulation.